Tundra 5.7 Oil Change With Drain Valve

Oil Drain Valve Allows for easy oil drainage.

Previously I replaced my drain plug / drain bolt with a quality (made in Japan not China) drain valve. This was one of the smartest things I have done. I just connected a silicon tube (you can use rubber  or any hose like tube as well ). One end connected to the valve and the other straight into the drain pan.

I recommend using a tube that fits snug with the drain valve. Also don’t use to long of a hose. You have to make sure the end of the hose just fits in the pan slightly but does not go all the way to the bottom of the pan or what ever your pouring the oil into. This is so you can quickly drain the pan.

Without a drain valve, you can easily spill out as it shoots out from oil pan. Also since the stream of oil constantly changes, you have to re-arrange the pan.

The oil drain valve allows you to drain the pan without using any tools. You steal need the filter wrench to remove the filter.

I used AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-20 Motor Oil with the AMSOIL Filter. The 5.7 Tundra Oil Change Interval is 10k Miles (requires synthetic oil). I usually try to change it at 10k but I was actually over 3k miles this time. I was not worried at all. I did an oil analysis before. I primarily drive at higher than normal RPM on the highway (my style of driving / same if if you have a ECU tunning / tow mode / pedal commander). The oil analysis I did at 10k miles for my style of driving said I should be good to keep the oil for up to 15k miles.

My next project is going to be to replace the sparks plugs / air filter / cabin filter. I will probably do this this month or next month.

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Gave Away the Ford FE Big Block before wasting money!!!

Bare Block Ford FE

I gave away my Ford FE Big Block Engine, cylinder heads, intake manifold, and oil pan for free. I initially drove a far distance to pick this block up for $100. My initial idea was to get a stroker kit and rebuilt the engine. Not too familiar with Ford Engines, I had assumed nobody would have really bored out the engine before.

So being new to Ford FE Big Block Engines I decided to buy a book on rebuilding them. I believe within the first two chapters and some help from the author, I found out this Engine was a waste of time and money. The bore was at 4.11. Someone had bored this engine out a few times before I got it. I measured the distance between the cylinders (using a drill bit through the coolant passage method) and determines it was a 360 Block from 1969. It would not have been safe to bore the engine out anymore.

I considered sleeving the engine. But the local machine shops in the area are off the charts overpriced. After more consulting with people throughout the US, we determined this engine should be scrapped. So I posted it online for Free and it was picked up from my yard in a couple of hours. If this was a Cobra Engine it would have been worth restoring, but it was not.

I think my next engine project I am going to start out with an engine bare block that is brand new.