Horrific Oil Change Experience

The 5.7L V8 Toyota Tundra uses a cartridge oil filter. This is different than the spin on oil filter. Basically with the Tundra you spin off the oil filter cover then replace the oil filter element and put the cover back on. The spin-on oil filter that is common on smaller cars houses itself so you just throw the entire thing away. Anyways I was debating on replacing mine with a metal one. One problem with a metal filter cover is that you could potentially damage the threads a lot easier compared to the stock plastic cover. For the first time I did not spill a gallon of oil on my driveway and through everything was going to be good, but yesterday I broke two oil filter removal tools trying to unscrew my oil filter cover. My plastic filter cover basically seized in the engine most likely because I over-torqued it during the last oil change (I only used a torque wrench on the drain bolt).

I watched a YouTube video of some guy tapping the filter and surrounding area to unseize the filter. That did nothing in my case.   I ended up having to cut off the plastic portion that was sticking out of the engine. Then I carefully cut two groves on the plastic portion that screws into the engine. I was then able to lightly pop out the plastic pieces. I made sure the threads were not damaged. I then went to the local automotive store and was surprised their was one metal cover in stock that fit my vehicle. I bought it and was able to continue my oil change. I looked at Toyota Brand replacement and it was actually more expensive than the metal one. I don’t think the metal tabs on this aftermarket filter will shear off like the stock plastic one.

A good thing that happened is that I was able to install a drain valve. This valve basically replaced the stock drain bolt in the pan. So the next time I need to change my oil I can just hook up a plastic tube in the valve and another one in a bottle. Doing this will prevent a large spill. The oil filter cover actually has a valve built in it as well. You screw off a small portion on the bottom and connect a fitting and you drain the oil from it (instead having oil spill from the filter cover when you remove it) .

Gave Away the Ford FE Big Block before wasting money!!!

Bare Block Ford FE

I gave away my Ford FE Big Block Engine, cylinder heads, intake manifold, and oil pan for free. I initially drove a far distance to pick this block up for $100. My initial idea was to get a stroker kit and rebuilt the engine. Not too familiar with Ford Engines, I had assumed nobody would have really bored out the engine before.

So being new to Ford FE Big Block Engines I decided to buy a book on rebuilding them. I believe within the first two chapters and some help from the author, I found out this Engine was a waste of time and money. The bore was at 4.11. Someone had bored this engine out a few times before I got it. I measured the distance between the cylinders (using a drill bit through the coolant passage method) and determines it was a 360 Block from 1969. It would not have been safe to bore the engine out anymore.

I considered sleeving the engine. But the local machine shops in the area are off the charts overpriced. After more consulting with people throughout the US, we determined this engine should be scrapped. So I posted it online for Free and it was picked up from my yard in a couple of hours. If this was a Cobra Engine it would have been worth restoring, but it was not.

I think my next engine project I am going to start out with an engine bare block that is brand new.